Old Faithfuls

What is this? Shock therapy for claustrophobes? First, we're climbing up very steep stairs, then we're ducking our heads and creeping along a narrow gloomy tunnel until there's at least a hundred metres of limestone between us and the big blue sky. Later, we pause before Wayne, our guide, turns off all the lights. This is serious darkness, the only glimmer a motion-activated red light on a child's shoe. It's no surprise to learn that the Aborigines called this place Binoomea, meaning "dark places".