Old Faithfuls

Sydney Morning Herald

Saturday October 16, 2004

Fiona McGill

What is this? Shock therapy for claustrophobes? First, we're climbing up very steep stairs, then we're ducking our heads and creeping along a narrow gloomy tunnel until there's at least a hundred metres of limestone between us and the big blue sky. Later, we pause before Wayne, our guide, turns off all the lights. This is serious darkness, the only glimmer a motion-activated red light on a child's shoe. It's no surprise to learn that the Aborigines called this place Binoomea, meaning "dark places".

There are nine show caves at Jenolan and on this busy weekend we have joined capacity tours of Lucas (90 minutes) and Chifley (60 minutes) caves, on a Wonders Underworld package. Wayne says it's rare that people are unable to complete a cave tour - and what comes after more than makes up for my anxiety. When we step into the Cathedral Chamber of Lucas Cave, for example - 50 metres from cave floor to "belfry" and the largest chamber in the nine show caves - Wayne turns on the new computerised lighting system and the "oohs" and "aahs" come from everywhere. The Cathedral Chamber is popular for weddings and concerts: Wayne plays a CD to demonstrate the spine-tingling acoustics.

As we make our way through Lucas Cave, enjoying the benefits of walkways and handrails, we imagine how in the mid-19th century the early cave explorers, candles gripped between their teeth, slipped and slithered their way through. Lucas Cave includes the famous broken column, a beautifully clear pool far below us and plenty of examples of the various limestone formations that make Jenolan Caves such a drawcard.

Jenolan Caves is a 21/2-hour drive from Sydney. Cave tour packages range from $15 to $55. Until the end of October, children get in free on a Wonders Underworld package ($24 per adult). Inquiries: 6359 3911 or visit www.jenolancaves.org.au

© 2004 Sydney Morning Herald

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